Archive for July 2014
Quangsheng Luban No.92 Shoulder PlaneSaturday 26th July 2014
It's been a while since I've attempted to "review" anything so it was a joy to have the chance of getting my hands on the Quangsheng Luban No.92 Shoulder plane. This was kindly provided by Workshop Heaven via a UK Woodworking Forum pass around. I can't stress enough how sensible this process is. Instead of listening to the chosen few you get a very rounded view of typical end users experiences, excellent! As with all "reviews" always take them with a pinch of salt. As we all know, we as humans are subject to our own bias and even reviews that seem only to deal with numbers and data can present them in an unrealistic way. Mine will be no different.
I hope the video conveys some of the points. Needless to say not all folks work the same so at least you can see how I use a shoulder plane. I also decided to contrast it against my Stanley No. 92 Sweetheart.
On the slightly trivial matter of looks the Luban wins for me. It has a strong Preston design flavour and looks very business like. The surface of the Luban seems nice too although you might just spy in the picture below that around the transition between the black surfaces and the metal there are some keen edges. More on that later. The surface finish on the stanley is not so good but not preventative of use.
The blade within the Stanley is an A2 steel which I have no problem with although I much prefer the high carbon steel of the Luban. The quality of the steel within Quangsheng blades is something I have enjoyed before. The only issue I had was the blade did not present squarely in the mouth. I just skewed my honing a bit to get things working which only took moments.
Both the planes have adjustable mouths. The Luban is quick and easy to set. Removal of the cutting iron could not be more easy on the Luban. A thumb wheel allows for fast removal without the need for a tool. Depth of cut adjustment is good too. The Stanley however is a nightmare taking much longer to remove the blade and adjust the depth of cut.
For the "in use" demo please do take a look at the video. To sum it up though, as much as I like the Luban I did not find it that comfortable to use. As you read earlier those transition points on the surface did not feel so nice in use. The Stanley, for all it's faults, of which there are many, was the easier to use and for me that is the big driving factor. If I had to choose I would probably go with the Stanley just because of ergonomics. However an alternative option is on the horizon, more on that soon.
Make a Six Board Chest - Part 4Thursday 10th July 2014
Wow, some time has passed since I worked on this project! To pick up where we left of it’s time to do a dry fit and fine tune things if required.
The timber has moved a bit but the housings and rebates allow the straightening of the boards. The rebates needed some fine tuning to allow the best fit. I used a simple wooden rebate plane to do this.
Once satisfied the fit was good it was onto drilling pilot holes for the nails. I must strongly recommend doing a trial nail on scrap before you start unleashing pilot holes on your work. I’m lucky to have a huge stock of old nails to hand and found a suitable pilot bit. Even though I’m going to punch the nails below the surface to allow stopping and painting I gave into OCD and set out the nails with equal spacing. Avoid the temptation to bring nails too close to the edge of your work, if you do, you risk splitting the wood.
Before things are nailed up I clean up the inside faces, I used a handplane. Also, if you have a lock or catch now is the time to chop out the recess, it’s so much easier to do it now rather than waiting until the whole thing is nailed together.
This is a glue free carcase, truth be told you could most likely add some if you wished but I’m going dry. As I stress in the video, please don’t rush, with no glue you have all the time in the world to make sure things go were they are supposed to. Before any nailing takes plane I drilled pilot hoses to prevent splitting. Also, at the top of the chest I add a small, shallow pilot hole to prevent the top edge of the board from busting out.
If you choose to use traditional nails make sure the nail heads line up with the grain, otherwise you have a high chance of the wood splitting.
Drive the nails in and punch below the surface. Then it’s a case of cleaning and levelling the outer faces. Next step is to make and attach the shaped plinth. Should be fun as I get to break out the moulding planes!
Woodworking - No TalkingMonday 7th July 2014
Here's the first of a couple of videos I've got finished up. The idea with this video was "Woodworking - No Talking". As much as I enjoy a good "how to video" I thought it would be nice just to have a "do" video. Why? Well sometimes I think it's nice to just watch a process, to see the workflow and absorb how people go about a process. Talking is often essential to getting a point across but it makes the process less natural. Some initial feedback from this idea seems positive, with that in mind when I do my "how to" I'll add a "do". Once the boarded chest is done I have a nice quick project that I hope to get done in three or four videos (Ken, it should tie in nicely with the wood I sent you) with a one or two "how to" and "do" thrown in. Anyway, here is the first video, not great granted but I will make sure I think about it a bit more next time to give it a bit more edge.