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Archive for August 2014

  • Beyond The Baseline

    Sunday 24th August 2014

    Over Cut Dovetails

    Firstly this post is very much about my "hobby" woodworking. As well as making and reading I like to get out and about and look at things. Making can be insular, reading can be idealistic but seeing real pieces in the wild is of huge value. I would imagine that if you like making things in your spare time you're like me, your own worst critic right? That's very understandable and good to some degree. The good is the reflection and the spur to do better, the bad can be frustration and a poor relationship with the finished project. I've made pieces that are just fine but a couple of things might bug me, sometimes I'll let it annoy me too much. Stupid really.

    Nailed Drawers

    I've been making a real effort to take some photos of pieces I find on my travels so I can share some of the details here. I think if you did the same you might just feel better about your woodworking. Why? Well it's a broad church out there from the early Oak Coffers of the 16th Century, Mahogany Wonders from the 18th Century and Post Modern with a heap of stuff in-between, before, after and yet still to come. Pieces were made by by the local "Jack of all trades" to masters of one strict discipline and boy is there some variation!

    Over Cutting Dovetails

    I'm dropping in photos within this post, I'm not adding any judgement, you can see for yourselves what's going on. As you can see the photos are of the important aspect of drawers, dovetails and casework. Forgive the poor quality photos but I'm often in cramped conditions when taking a shot. Interestingly about a 1/3 to 1/2 of drawers I see are but jointed and nailed. I've found the timber in drawer bottoms runs both ways. Yes I know the best way to put a drawer base in but some chose not to and they still work.

    Drawer Bottom

    We all make things for various reasons, mine is for fun and to explore the rich history of woodworking. Also I want to make durable and attractive (to me) items that will outlast me an perhaps a few others after I'm gone as well. Almost all the photos here are in pieces that are older than an age I would love to get to (one of them much older) and they still work and in most case will continue to do so for another lifetime or so.

    Neat Dovetails

    Is this blog post to make you lower your standards and accept low quality work? Not a bit of it. We do the best we can do and will continue to do so with the knowledge and skills we have at hand. What all the images have in common is they are from honest and durable pieces of furniture that have stood the test of time. For me I like to see the tickle of handskills left on the workpiece in whatever form that might be. So next time you cut a bit beyond the baseline, turn your nose up at a nail or weep over some tearout keep it in perspective. When you stand back and look at what you've made does it look pretty good? Check! Is it going to last a lifetime or two? Check! Next project please.

    Lots of Dovetails

  • Making a Six Board Chest - Part 5

    Wednesday 20th August 2014

    I hope Part 5 has you entertained, it is an epic length episode so feel free to have an interval! Anyhow the finish line seems to be getting closer and I'm looking forward to getting some finish on the chest. I had thought of using milk paint as I had on my tool chest. However as much as I was pleased with the finish on the tool chest I had my eyes turned onto alternative and dare I say it more appropriate finishes. I'm naturally interested in things that have gone before and separate to this project I have been thinking about traditional paint finishes on the old (1920's and earlier) joinery I see on my travels for some time. I've always known it was "lead paint" but beyond that I knew little except that it was toxic. However I started to learn that "lead paint" as I knew it is a traditional finish using linseed oil. A traditional oil paint if you will. So therefore if you make this paint without lead (which you can) you have a highly appropriate finish.

    I was nudged into the direction of Stephen Shepard's work on the subject by the Eaton County Woodworker . The book has been a great help. I have the supplies on the way and look forward to making my own paint (or making a mess of it) in a traditional way. There are also places where you can buy linseed oil paint ready to go, Histocolour is one of the sources we have used when clients have requested a linseed oil paint.

  • Practice Runs & Templates

    Saturday 9th August 2014

    Woodworking Template

    Whatever you like to call it, pattern, template, dry run it's fair to say it's a useful process. I'm currently working on the moulded plinth section and I wanted to get the shape to my liking. Grabbing a bit of scrap off the shelf and working out the look on a 1:1 scale worked great. It completely removes the risk of messing up your project wood. Once I'm happy with the look I can keep the template "on file" for the next time. The same is true of many details, if you're at that fork in the road on what to do grab a piece of ply or the like and draw your area out full size. Programmes like Sketch Up can be very helpful but drawing things out full size helps me more. The video for part 5 is coming along nicely and should be up soon. I also have the next project in mind to which should give me plenty more subjects to explore.