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Archive for September 2017

  • Cedar of Lebanon, for a Tabletop!?

    Wednesday 27th September 2017

    Cedar of Lebanon UK

    When presented with the instruction from one of our best clients, that they'd like us to make a table top from Cedar of Lebanon, I was taken aback. It's a rare timber for starters, with only UK grown and converted wood avaialble. Luckily for me I did't have to supply the wood, the client had a storm fall tree that they'd converted a while back. It's not a species that originated here, most trees were typically planted as a specimen tree or similar. Traditionally Cedar of Lebanon has been used in the inside of furniture as it has a great fragrance and keeps moths and bugs away from your prized threads.

    Cedar of Lebanon

    Each piece was a stunning 3.200mtr long x 450mm wide x 52mm thick with a view to make a top 2.900 x 850 x 47. Luckily we're well equiped with a planing machine that will cope with boards up to 520mm wide and a sanding machine that will deal with finished work up to 900mm wide. At about 560kg/m3 it's not too heavy but much heavier than the more commercially common Western Red Cedar that weighs in at around 330kg/m3. I was able to handle the seperate pieces with ease but called in help when the top was glued up.

    Cedar Of Lebanon Cut to Size

    When edge joining I always come striaght from our machine. I have read than many people favour taking a handplane to further refine the glue joint. All I can say is that I'm lucky that we have the quality equipment that get the result right first time without having to take the extra step. I normally only revert to a handplane if the work piece is to awkward to take to a machine, something like building up a stair string for a winder. The adhesive I favour for edge gluing is polyurethane adhesive, it has never failed on edge joints on a wide range of timber species and I feel it is much better than PVA or cascamite for this purpose. If you've never used it the glue foams as it sets has a bit of mixed reception by woodworkers. Perhaps people assume the foaming will fill gaps. I can only say that using polyurethane adhesive for gap filling is foolish in the extreme. The joint must fit as well as possible. The only area I don't like polyurethane glue is for gluing up joinery frames, especially with intricate mouldings. There's just too much clean up.

    Cedar of Lebanon Furniture

    After sanding and moulding the edges with a small pencil round the top s ready for delivery. It's a very mellow and interesting timber to look at with nice movement in the grain. I was lucky that the two piece were defect free on the show faces and I was able to create a well matched top, the third image from the top shows that quite well. I hope the clients enjoy the new table top ad although cedar is perhaps not the best choice, it's quite nice to have a top that was made from a storm fall tree.

  • More Hand Saw Sharpening

    Monday 25th September 2017

    Hand Saw Sharpening

    You wait ages for someone to ask you sharpen their saws and then two jobs come along at once. As soon as I had finished my previous client's saws I had another few arrive. Two were Spear in Jackson in black finish, not sure if it's a stealth edition they did but they were quite unsusual. They only needed minor work, just a quick touch with a file, large handsaw was crosscut, I filed the small dovetail saw rip. I was able to do that for £8.00 each. The Disston panel saw needed quite a bit more work. My client had hit a screw when cutting some wood, cutting a screw is often worse than a nail as screws are normally harder than nails. Not only were the teeth in the middle ruined but the tooth line was very hollow as you can see below.

    Hollow Tooth Line

    With the straight edge touching the heel and the toe it highlighted that I had my work cut out to get the saw back into shape. After securing the saw in the vice I worked the teeth on the heel and toe with a file until the tooth line was close to straight. I could of gone for a touch more, but I often have to balance the time I spend against what the client is willing spend and the tooth line was much improved, lets say, more than accpetable. Teeth being removed shown below.

    Filing Off Saw Teeth

    Teeth being formed again

    Filing New Saw Teeth

    Once the teeth were formed and sharp all that needed to be done was to add the set. For this much work I would need to charge in around £25.00. Last was the nice Spear & Jackson tenon saw. Sadly, my Woden saw vice would not allow the brass back of the saw to pass through, so I improvised and used a couple pieces of batten held in between the quick release vice on the bench.

    Woden Saw Vice

    With all the sharpening done I then took a moment to look at the etching on both the Spear & Jackon and Disston saws. The etching on both was from the same company, "John Hall Tools".

    John Hall Tools

    I thought it was interesting that both brands had the same etching. It didn't take long to discover that John Hall Tools were a large tool dealer selling various brands. You can read an old brocure here and see one of their shops in Bristol here . It felt good to get the Disston back into a well functioning tool, athough I had to work on the teeth the rest of the saw was in excellent condition. Hopefully the client can put all the saws to good use.

    Saws Sharpened

  • English Oak Windows

    Thursday 7th September 2017

    English Oak Window

    It's not often we get the chance to use home grown timbers in our joinery work. This is not unsual, the UK has been a big importer of timber for hundreds of years, from masts to furniture and joinery timbers. On this occasion the timber in question is English Oak (Quercus Robor) and we're using it to make windows for a unique Devon property. The windows are an early casement style and emulate the work of the stone mason in their design an proportion. The give away for that reasoning is the large mullions, head, jamb & cill with very wide chamfers and beyond that they look just like stone windows!

    English Oak In Workshop

    All the mortice and tennon joints are secured with oak pegs, rather than the more usual wedges. Very substantial pegs in regards to the frames. We made our pegs and found that making the big pegs was best done witht the "oversize pencil sharpener method". This worked very well, I think the guys caught how to do that from the various YouTube videos showing the method. The smaller pegs for the casements were made using a dowel plate.

    The great thing with pegged joints is that they don't require the clamping during the glue up process, all it requires is an offset hole in the tenon and the joint comes up snug when the peg is driven home. The only reason I generally prefer wedges is that wedges avoid having end grain facing the weather and drawing moisture through. When the joinery is this big and of such a durable species it's not a concern for my lifetime.

    Oak pegged joinery devon

    We look forward to sharing a few photos of the installed windows in the coming months. As an aside I grabbed one of the offcuts which has some stunning figure. I ran my smoothing plane over the surface, it might of been just a sweet section of timber but it worked like butter, smooth clean shavings. Wiped on a bit of oil to bring out the beauty. I'll keep the offcut, would make a lovely box, drawer side or veneer material.

    Quarter Sawn English Oak

  • Chairs Repaired

    Tuesday 5th September 2017

    Devon Chair Repair

    Due to the poor condition of the chairs I posted about last time I'm not sure just how long the repairs will last. We've been pragmaic in our approach and I hope that they'll last a few years more. The long split on the leg was pretty easy to repair thanks to the split/break being so long. That kind of break creates lots of long grain to long grain glue surface area, ensuring a good bond. Although you can see the glue joint, shown below, it's as good as can be hoped for.

    Restored Chair Devon

    The other issues were sorted with screws, glue and plugs. Not ideal, but in this situation the best approach as it combines mechanical strength and glue strength. If these chairs were able to take a more traditional repair, trust me, we'd do it.

    Repaired Chair

    One thing I noticed on the back is what I assume to be a makers mark. I'm no furniture expert and I'm pretty sure these are pretty much run of the mill chairs and the marks are unlikely the sign of some old time chair makers. However the chairs have an elm seat, oak legs and beech back, the kind of vernacular mix of highly appropriate timbers, especially the elm with it's tightly woven grain proving a very split resistant seat. Anyway, pleased to see the chairs getting some more years of use.

    Chair Making Mark

    Makers Mark Chairs

    If you'd like to watch some excellent traditional rural chair making, take a look at the video from Erco Furniture shown below.